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St Petersburg 5/20/18: Overnight Train 53 left St Petersburg at midnight and arrived Moscow a little past 0800 I dozed in the van en route to Katarina City Hotel which was distant from the Red Square but right by the Moscow River The hotel was unremarkable except for a curious built-in wooden sauna in the bathroom and the funky isosceles trapezoid shaped bathroom sink We checked in and left for the half day tour almost immediately Moscow Our guide Natalya thought it was clever to tell us that she was glad we had to miss the Lenin Mausoleum because we would have to wait a long line She said it seemed the many Chinese tourists have a fascination with his dead body An older white man behind me cackled aloud and then no one else complained about missing the mausoleum I drew a breath and rebutted her So you’re saying no one but the Chinese wants to visit the Mausoleum She realizing there were Chinese customers in her English speaking group said Of course not Russians also like to visit The man cackled again GoRussia: “We have contacted our Moscow partners and they asked to forward their apologies to you and promised to talk to the guide seriously Under gray sky and drizzling rain Red Square was obstructed by ugly scaffolds and tents everywhere in preparation for World Soccer 2018 Moscow was not happening 5/21/18: I awoke well rested at 0530 and started to pack for the early evening train to Yekaterinburg After a nice free buffet breakfast of potato sausage cheese and croissant at 0900 Natalia walked us out to the metro Sunny day Locals were everywhere and plenty were going toward the metro too We visited the Kremlin compound At noon there was changing of the guards Someone pointed out Putin’s office building The grounds also had several white wall gold dome churches and the Kremlin Museum The museum housed original Russian artifacts Interesting were a gown of Catherine’s that revealed her once unnaturally small waistline a pair of boots made by Peter for himself a collection of Faberge eggs and thrones gifted by foreign countries I bought a little egg charm for 800 rubles Next Natalia lead us deep underground into a web of metro lines to see several well decorated platforms She explained it was Lenin’s decision to bring the palatial experience to the masses A true socialist and how it paid off in posterity for tourism I thought From the hotel we were escorted by van to the Kazanskaya Station I pointed to a monument at the facade and asked the new lady guide who the statue was Without batting an eye she said she didn’t know To be fair her job was not to give a tour” so why should she answer Inside the station she was very nice to look after our luggage so that we could walk around the station before Train 60 arrived I patronized a snack shop the cashier was a Korean lady I then noticed Korean women working several snack shops My purchases turned out unnecessary First class offered free snacks glass bottled water and even next day’s breakfast at our preferred time Our attendant Marguerite spoke about 10 words in English so here offline Google Translate helped in our otherwise confusing communication Marguerite peddled trinkets too I bought a train magnet for 150 rubles Early on Jeanette tipped Marguerite asking especially to be notified whenever a stop allowed enough time for a cigarette break Marguerite was dutiful The bar guy dropped off 2 more bottles of water so far we were not asked for payment Away from Moscow the view was the same eternal miles of trees now in May green and in full bloom with delicate leaves The first stop was 25 minutes at Vekovka Vendors ready to sell cup sets trinkets and one walked around peddling a vase 2 feet tall Who would buy that vase I munched on dried goods to forego dinner The back of the train’s couch flipped down to a slightly wider laying surface still only about 2 feet wide and 6 feet long I lay against 2 useless soft pillows and sank into watching downloaded YouTube My 24x13x9 luggage was like custom fit for under-seat stowing Jeanette needed the shade down for her sleep but agreed I could have it up until nothing to see outside But there was always something to see outside IMO I dozed off but woke up having remembered about the shade I took a last look at the darkness and was pleasantly surprised A starry sky was above the woods passenger 5/22/18: I dreamt something so I knew I did sleep At 0500 Jeanette was up and out I pulled the shade up to another bright beautiful day Marguerite the attendant came to say something Without understanding I guessed that the next stop was approaching Sammy a Beijing Chinese Canadian was our new friend Sammy was fun kind and youthful beyond his age He and Jeanette became smoking buddies I saw Sammy on his way out to smoke I grabbed the camera and got out the train without combing or washing Marguerite pointed me to go left of the track I walked following her pointing and saw a nice building facade Kazan Station The first mosquito I saw was before I left the train and then there were clusters of them outside Mosquitoes got on board Breakfast was a light potato vegetable soup and a small plate of cold cuts I enjoyed them We met more fellow travelers–Simon and Nicola from England and Lilo and Mariana from Switzerland When asked Nicola told me she was a real estate project manager and Simon was an award-winning photographer I looked up Simon’s website on Zen and photography They were friends en route to Vladivostok then fly to Seoul to see their Zen master for 3 weeks Heather also from England was traveling solo Her 2nd class room for four ended up only one male roommate a serious looking rotund bald and morose white dude Her solace was Simon and Nicola in the next cabin Lilo poked into our cabin on her way to the toilet I followed her to the dining car There she asked about the availability of vodka which the reply was nyet I immediately liked this woman who had a witty disposition a handsome face and despite a slight limp and older age taking the Trans Siberia was her dream came true said she Her travel mate Mariana lithe and fit less satirical but just as charming Even though ours was a brief acquaintance these new friends invited me to call on them on my next visit to their countries Gentle and kind people Marguerite told us right at the start about the toilet rule: no dumping toilet paper into the toilet bowl! It was necessary for me to check it out The toilet room was tight but the stainless steel sink and counter were kept clean Ventilation was not good so I started imagining smells that may or may not actually were there Now what to do after a major dump Excuse me I had no choice but to wipe and tossed paper products into the plastic lined trash receptacle with no lid Supposedly it was well known that all flushes go directly down to the tracks So be it Every so many hours there would be a long enough stop for us to go out I had hoped to photograph every station facade As we moved eastward the clock sped up increasingly Yekaterinburg would be 2 hours ahead of Moscow time 5/23/18: Olga collected the English speaking group from Novotel Yekaterinburg for a 5 hour tour We went to Ural mountain’s Europe Asia border landmark The rest of the tour was about the horrific deeds by the Bolsheviks We visited a Soviet Union era execution site now a memorial park We visited the execution spot of the last Tsar’s family In a wooded area where the family’s bodies were thrown into a pit and destroyed by acid and fire now stood a monastery complex with statues churches and tomb stones where remains once laid Olga said 11 Bolsheviks were involved in the killing of the 7 family members and 4 servants Five of the 7 had been reburied in St Petersburg’s Peter and Paul Cathedral where also laid Peter the Great and Catherine the Great The two left will be there soon When we returned back to town we visited Yekaterinburg’s Church of Spilled Blood which was built on the family’s home that Boris Yeltsin ordered to demolish against UNESCO’s request to move the house to France Olga said some were calling the family members saints although the Orthodox Church not yet agreed While visiting these sites I had the impression that the Russian Federation was actively erasing the countries Soviet past Now they glorify the Tsar Olga said even Rasputin had been hailed in a different light Yekatarinburg was capitalizing on the family’s deaths IMO Sammy Jeanette and I walked from Novotel to the City Square where Lenin’s statue stood hailing the magnificent KGB building across the street We had 7 hours before the train We pulled our own luggage into the station up 2 flights of stairs to land at x-ray screening Not easy Pay 200 rubles per baggage for porter handling may not be an option to refuse for some Train 70 was older On this leg of 25 days there were no first class compartments Jeanette and I shared a 2nd class compartment with 4 beds The differences: no free breakfast no helpful attendant packaged clean linens were given but passengers made our own beds So far the common denominator on the 3 trains was that information was verbal or written in Russian only Even though at least half of the train’s passengers were foreigners yet for all the years apparently no efforts to improve communication were deemed necessary There was some chaos upon entering the compartments We were shocked that previous stayed over mess had not been cleaned and attendants showed no sympathy–either too proud to accommodate or just lack the steam to do better 5/24-5/25/18: I woke up not knowing which clock to reference The window was blazed in light Morning I had slept well No attendant came to disturb was a good thing in 2nd class I didn’t need to be charged 100 rubles for a cup of coffee having my own delicious C7 instant To avoid the public toilet and sink I relied on face wipes I used about 10 sheets last night before bed I brushed my teeth using cooled hot drinking water supplied by the public tank I rinsed and spit into a leak-proof bag and then wiped clean my face with several sheets The weather was calm and sunny We got off at some stations Most had booths selling boring packaged goods instant noodles and few ready to eat items: sandwiches sausages danishes and Russian bread Only the Barabinsk stop was fun Old ladies sold whole smoked fish for 50 rubles less than 1 Men sold fake or real fur collars Landscape along the tracks had been green with trees usually birch and pine I imagined these trees in long winters and the view out the window would had been pure white Once awhile we passed by small refineries with simple living or abandoned houses nearby Sometimes communities appeared with houses painted in contrasting cheerful toy colors next to one another which gave instant charm to the landscape Strangely so the houses looked Russian by their hodge-podge materials and rustic construction Just trees rolled by against the sky changing from blue to gray as night approached Night was pitch-black with occasional flashes of light I imagined a starry sky much more than I could actually see from the dirty train window 5/26/18: Irkutsk station A van immediately drove us to Listvyanka On the way pretty Galina the guide introduced the city About an hour she pointed to the left and we saw Lake Baikal for the first time So what if it’s the deepest lake in the world I was glad to see it but not immediately impressed We turned left at a road by a memorial site and up the hill We stopped at our lodging A friendly man speaking with a French accent came to greet us at the door We changed into slippers at entering his house which I felt immediately homey and cozy He gave me a choice I told him ground floor Our room was lovely but so was every room in the house I was settling down when Joseph a young solo Australian guy stuck his head in to call me to hurry up if I wanted to hitch a ride down to the lake with the van that just dropped us off I needed to let Jeanette know if I were to go so I started hollering her and Sammy’s names toward the 2nd floor where I thought they may be enjoying cigarettes at Sammy’s balcony Next thing Jeanette called me so I went out with her Meanwhile Sammy was missing as the van drove away Jeanette was feeling bad about leaving Sammy behind We landed by the lake and I suggested walking toward the road to see if Sammy was on his way down Rain began Jeanette was getting sicker with a cold but we kept on all the way back to the lodge We found Sammy who had told Joseph about staying behind Now Sammy was OK about going down the sun shone as we walked Lake shore was not interesting at all There were few boats anchored Chinese tourists were looking around like we were The few shops were simple cafes selling drinks and not much food We were hungry for lunch A local pointed us to a non-descriptive modern building with several stories We weren’t sure if there was a restaurant but there was It was a hotel I ordered soup raw white fish salad and 4 dumplings When we were done it was raining hard Jeanette was too sick She opted for a taxi to go back to the lodge Sammy accompanied her I took off walking with my blue umbrella because I couldn’t trust the weather to clear up later to see the lake having come such a long way Along that part the shoreline was unremarkable I took a few photos and started back As soon as I made it back to the lodge the sky cleared up and the sun shone fresh and wonderful I was ready to rest after the uphill walk when Sammy called out to ask whether I wanted a boat ride Right the boats should operate again now that the rain stopped Jeanette was in no condition to go Sammy and I went on The water was crystal clear over pebbles I touched the water Sammy tasted some to confirm it wasn’t salty We saw Nicola Simon Joseph and Heather who had already taken the boat Sammy and I found one too The ride was pleasant there again I felt the presence of God Lake Baikal was marvelous Praise!! Strolling along the shoreline I suddenly heard Cantonese spoken I spotted The Belt amp Road 1-Art Charity Expedition 一帶一路一藝術慈善遠征 truck which I’ve seen on YouTube I went up to say hello and they invited me to video record a statement I said I was just touring the area and glad to see they’re doing good work The group intended to travel the world to share arts and give charity to children Here is their 5/26 Lake Baikal on YouTube I didn’t make the cut: We returned to the lodge around dinner time Nicola’s gang had a beautiful spread of food and drinks from the market I had 2 of the 4 leftover dumplings from lunch Jeanette had one and I gave the last one to Pierre Pierre Mimi and Mimi’s father Daniel were from France 5/27/18: The lodge provided breakfast but Sammy was a no show He got stomach ailments after the trip to Baikal We suspected the cause could be that he drank lake water too close to the shore Ivan got the English speakers into his van Our first stop was to see a collection of wooden houses The museum was more a fairground especially this Trinity Day Sunday I learned that birch trees would be too soft for house building They were good for furniture though–I think for nesting dolls too Pine or larch were the main house materials Logs were stacked and connected by cut grooves assembled like a jigsaw puzzle Ivan drove us back out toward Irkutsk town center Traffic jam caused us half hour to go just one block Trinity Day everyone was out promenading and dancing by the Angara River We saw two more churches By now I concluded to myself that the murals were template paintings all the same scenes and characters Nothing wrong with that folks were emotional and pious nevertheless We got to the Angara Hotel in early evening Nicola Simon Heather and Joseph were at the bar waiting for their transportation at 2030 We offered them showers in our rooms We hugged and said goodbye Jeanette Sammy and I visited the supermarket next door and then Sammy couldn’t resist the Peking duck restaurant at our hotel I had soup and a stir-fry 5/28/18: Early train out of Irkutsk toward Ulaanbaatar passed along Lake Baikal for more than 4 hours before I stopped tracking Baikal was indeed incredible No 306 an older train but first class with two beds and relatively less people per car was a great improvement to second class last time No particular rule mentioned about not flushing our dirty wipes down to the rail tracks Mariana explained about toilets needing to be locked for half hour before and after each train depot so that folks in town don’t have to deal with the crap left on the tracks too close to their homes Biodegradable or not paper products on tracks would be a horrific sight Made sense Then trouble Sammy asked about our return flight after arrival in Beijing and that’s when we found that GoRussia had changed the arrival time on Jeanette and my Final Instructions I began to prepare an email to Julia and tried to figure out what to do Meanwhile border control from Russia and then Mongolia came on board and thoroughly checked each of us and our cabins Mariana’s Russian visa exit day was one day before She was taken away to pay a 1000 rubles fine Train attendant said that’s a minor problem 5/29/18: It was strange how soon past the border Russian landscape immediately disappeared and Mongolian grassland came into view endlessly Occasionally I could make out minuscule 2-hump camels afar And just like in the movies and National Geographic here and there was a nomadic ger with nearby animal herds grazing in utmost spaciousness Life at the steppes continued 3 to 4 hours outside my window As soon as I met our Mongolian guide Alex I noticed he had cat pupils they were translucent orange color and he said he was not wearing lenses I snapped his photo Concerned about our return flight I asked him about wifi Alex generously offered his hotspot Ann at UA said if we call 90 minutes before departure to let them know we will be late they could possibly put us on another flight Our Mongolia segment included all meals Immediately we were taken to breakfast at a swanky modern restaurant–ham egg sausage and tea Looking out the glass window wall this part of Ulaanbaatar was a mix of blank grassland awakening to new constructions We headed to Terelj National Park Our stay was gers inside the park These tourist gers were adequately furnished even had electrical plugs Washroom and toilets were separate buildings All the comforts except for some amount of bugs and gnats Meals were beautifully and tastily prepared—salad soup meat and sweets Everyone was glad to shower The wait staff was beautiful young girls with the sweetest smiles and delicate features They were meticulous at their service At night wood fire was lit in our ger late night and early morning could be cold Mongolia was all about Genghis Khan We visited a nomad family Their 7-year old son was super cute and handy He hauled in buckets of water He cooperated with our photo snapping He trained and guided the horse that I rode back to our camp On this occasion I learned that the Mongolia horse was petite but perfectly powerful as a battle accessory This beautiful boy with clear observant eyes and a confident stance on and off the horse convinced me that he could be the next Temujin 5/30/18: Ulaanbaatar was one big traffic jam We visited their national museum a temple a cashmere shop Mongolian BBQ and saw a variety show 5/31/18: Ulaanbaatar to Beijing took 30 hours including 5 hours from 2100 to 0200 at border crossing I even enjoyed this waiting time at China’s Erh-lien Station I met more travelers mostly younger a few traveling solo among them We all were friendly shared stories and experiences 6/1/18: With the help of Sammy and his kind brother in Beijing who came to assist and by Act Of God our flight was delayed 90 minutes Jeanette and I were able to catch the original flight Another beautiful trip Thank God! |
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